Machine for turning and spreading over-lock stitched garments



2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR ANTHONY ABBENA TE ATTORNEY Oct. 17, 1961 A ABBENANTE MACHINE FOR TURNING AND SPREADING OVER-LOCK STITCHED GARMENTS Filed July 3. 1958 Oct. 17, 1961 A. ABBENANTE 3,004,504

MACHINE FOR TURNING AND SPREADING OVER-LOCK STITCHED GARMENTS Filed July 3, 1958 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 FIG. 4.

FIG. 3.

FIG. 6.

INVENTOR ANTHONY ABBENANTE BYJ 2 ATTORNEY United States Patent i 3,004,504 MACHINE FOR TURNING AND SPREADING OVER-LOCK STITCHED GARMENTS Anthony Abbenante, 134-46 97th St., Ozone Park,'N.Y. Filed July 3, 1958, Ser. No. 746,423 4 Claims. (Cl. 112-203) This invention relates to a machine for turning and spreading over-lock stitched garments and the like.

In the making of ladies girdles and like garments overlook or over-edging stitching is conventionally used to attach two parts of the garments to each other. In the sewing'operation, these tWo parts are superimposed flat upon each other with coinciding edges. These edges are then sewn together, as on a two-thread Merrow machine, and the parts are then turned 180 degrees relative to each other to move them into a common plane. They are then pulled or spread in opposite directions so as to complete the turning operation and to maintain the parts in their newly acquired positions. It is immaterial whether this particular kind of sewing machine is used, so long as the stitching permits of a turning operation. Nor is it material whether the one part is turned relative to the other part, or whether the other part is turned relative to the first part, or whether they are both turned relative to each other; In all cases the turning operation is done by hand, and this is also true of the pulling or spreading operation that follows.

The object of this invention is the provision of a machine capable of performing the above described work previously done byhand'. Specifically, this machine is adapted to turn the over-locked or over-edged parts and to pull or spread them so that they will permanently maintain their'newly assumed relative positions. Briefly stated, the present machine is adapted to receive the garment with its superimposed parts partly opened, it is provided with a feeding mechanism which feeds the garment in such condition, and it is provided with a pushing or pulling mechanism which pushes or pulls one of the parts relative to the other part-until they occupy a common plane 180 degrees removed from each other. The pushing or pulling mechanism applies an outward force upon the first mentioned part to pull the two parts taut relative to each other and thereby to complete the turning operation and to move their interstitched edges into a common plane disposed transversely of the plane which they occupied when in superimposed relationship. The two parts are now permanently turned from their original super-imposed positions, this being the desired end result of the turning and pulling or spreading procedure above described.

More specifically, the present machine comprises a presser foot and a cooperative pusher which engage one of the overlooked parts between them, a second presser foot and a cooperative pusher which engage the other overlocked part between them, and a drive mechanism which operates the two pusher mechanisms in synchronization with each other, each operating intermittently and alternately with the other. The first presser foot and pusher mechanism constitutes the feed mechanism of the machine; the second presser foot and pusher mechanism constitutes the spreading mechanism. When the former operates to advance the cloth, the latter disengages the cloth and is inoperative. }When the latter operates to spread or pull the cloth taut, the first is inoperative except to the extent of holding the cloth sufliciently to resist the pull of the spreader mechanism.

The invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawing, in which:

FIG. 1 is a side view of a machine made in accordance with this invention.

3,004,504 Patented Oct. 17, 1961 FIG. 2 is a view of the opposite side of said machine.

FIG. 3 is a front view of the machine.

FIG. 4 is a view, partly sectional, of a spreader mechanism of the machine.

FIG. 5 is a similar view of the feeder mechanism of the machine.

FIG. 6 is a top view of the spreading mechanism.

Referring now to the drawing, it will be observed that the machine herein claimed is provided with a base 10, a head 12 supported by said base, and a conventional table which supports said base and said head. Rotatably supported in said head by suitable bearing means is a main drive shaft 14 which extends longitudinally of the head and projects outwardly therefrom at its back end. Secured to the outwardly projecting end of said main drive shaft is a conventional pulley 16 with a wheel 18 connected thereto. Conventional drive means such as an endless belt connects said pulley to a conventional rotary drive mechanism which is provided with the usual clutch arrangement. This is not shown because it forms no part of the present invention. Wheel 18 is adapted for manual actuation when it is desired to'operate the mechanism at a slow speed to adjust its position when inserting a new piece of work or for other purposes. This too is purely conventional.

Secured to the forward end of main drive shaft 14 is an eccentric 20 which is rotatably mounted in a rocker arm 22. This rocker arm is provided with a slot 24 which receives a pin 26 secured to the head of the machine. It is about this pin that the rocker arm is adapted to rock, and it is also adapted to engage in movement longitudinally of itself, also relative to said pin 26. A pusher-or feeder element 28 is mounted on rocker arm 22 in order to engage and feed the cloth as will hereinafter become more apparent.

It will now be observed that when shaft 14 iscaused to rotate, eccentric 20 thereon will cause rocker arm 22 to engage in a generally elliptical motion as indicated by the interrupted line 30.

It will be seen that supported at the forward end of machine head 12 is a work-supporting plate 40. This plate has an opening 42 formed therein, and it will be noted that the elliptical path which feeder element 28 is caused to travel will carry said feeder element into and through said opening 42 and into engagement with the work carried by the work plate 40. r

A presser foot 44 is disposed above work plate 40 and above the opening 42 formed therein. A vertical bar 46 supports said presser foot at the forward end of the head of the machine, and it will be observed that said bar is vertically movable to raise or lower the presser foot. This is a conventional feature of presser feet, and it will be seen that said bar 46 is connected at its upper end to the forward end of a bellcrank 48. The bellcrank is pivotally supported intermediate its ends on the machine head by means of screw 50. Connected to the opposite end of the bellcrank is a rod 52 or chain or any other conventional means which would be connected to a conventional knee or foot actuating device. When the bellcrank is caused to pivot in one direction, said presser foot 44 will be raised, and when it is caused to pivot in the opposite direction said presser foot will be lowered. This is a conventional operation known to those who are familiar with sewing machines.

Situated above work-supporting plate 40 but forwardly of presser foot 44 is a second presser foot 54. This second presser foot is supported by a vertical bar 56 which is mounted in the head of the machine for slidable movement therein in either vertical direction. The upper end of said vertical bar 56 is connected to the forward end of bellcrank 48 and is actuated 'by said bellcrank in substantially the same manner as vertical bar 46 above mentioned. Since these two vertical bars are both connected to the same bellcrank, they will both be actuated simultaneously with each other upon actuation of the bellcrank.

A spring 57 bears down upon a fioating bar 59'which engages vertical bar 46 and causes presser foot 44 to tensionally engage the work against the work supporting plate 40 and the feed element 28. A second spring 58 engages the upper end .of vertical bar 56 and thereby causes presser foot 54 to tensionally engage the work against the work-supporting plate and against pusher element 60 hereinafter mentioned. It will thus be understood that each of the presser feet is individually urged into tensional engagement with the work.

It will now be observed that a lip 61 on the forward end of the bellcrank engages the upper end of vertical bar 56, said upper end being bent laterally to form a horizontal portion 63. It is this horizontal portion which spring 53 engages. It will also be noted that a pin 65 on vertical bar 46 engages the forward end of the bellcrank. Hence when the bellcrank is pivoted in counterclockwise direction both vertical bars 46 and 56 will be elevated together with their respective presser feet 44 and 54.

The principles involved in the foregoing spring arrangement are well known to those in the art. It is necessary that the work be engaged by spring-urged presser feet, the spring tension being such as to permit the presser feet to yield in the face of thickness irregularity in the cloth. Such tensional engagement with the cloth is also required in connection with the action of the feed and spreader mechanisms which cooperate with the presser feet.

There is also the further requirement of independent action as between the two presser feet and the mechanical possibility of lost motion between them. As has above been described, each presser foot is actuated by a different spring, and joint action is provided only in con nection with the raising of both presser feet by means of the single bellcrank above mentioned.

Cooperating with the second presser foot 54 is a pusher 60, and it will be observed that said pusher 60 is engageable with said presser foot 54 through an opening 62 in the work-supporting plate 40. The mechanism which actuates pusher 60 will now be described. A worm 64 is secured to the forward end of main drive shaft 14, and said worm engages a worm wheel 66 on a transverse shaft 68. The ends of said transverse shaft are suitably supported by bearings, and said shaft is adapted to rotate in consequence of the rotation of the main drive shaft.

Secured to transverse shaft 63 is an eccentric 70, and said eccentric is rotatably supported within a circular bearing hole 72 formed in a rocker element 74. At its lower end said rocker element is pivotally supported on a pin 76 extending through a slot 78 in said rocker element. This is a similar arrangement to that of the first mentioned rocker arm 22, and it not only permits pivotal movement of said rocker element 74 but it also permits longitudinal movement thereof. When transverse shaft 68 is caused to rotate in the operation of the present machine, eccentric 70 on said shaft will rotate with it and cause the rocker element 74, and particularly its upper end, to'engage in a generally elliptical or orbital movement. Adjustably secured to rocker element 74 by means of screw 80 projecting through slot 82 is a supporting arm 84, and on said supporting arm is the pusher element 60. The interrupted elliptical line 86 shows the path of movement of said pusher element 60 as it passes into and out of engagement with the second presser foot 54 through opening 62 in the work-supporting plate 40.

The operation of the two pusher elements 28 and 60 is synchronized so that they operate alternately. As pusher 28 rises to engage presser foot 44, pusher 60 descends to disengage presser foot 54. In the operation of the machine, however, a garment will be disposed between the two presser feet, on the one hand, and the work-supporte ing plate, on the other. The garment will have at least 4 a two parts which are joined along their respective edges by overlock stitches .or the like. One of said parts will be .disposed under the first presser foot 44; the other part will be disposed under the second presser foot 54; and the joined edges of the two parts will be disposed between the two presser feet, extending in parallel relation to the vertical plane in which pusher element 28 moves. As said pusher element rises through opening 42 in the worksupporting plate 40, it will engage one of said parts of the gar-ment and advance it together with the other part of the garment in a conventional feeding procedure commonly known and used in the sewing machine art.

As the garment is thus intermittently fed through the machine, the part which is disposed below the second presser foot 54 is intermittently engaged by the second pusher element 60. Said second pusher element engages the latter part of the garment in the intervals between engagement of the first part of the garment by the first pusher element 28. The action of said second pusher element 60 is to push or pull the second part of the garment away from the first part of said garment in order to spread the two parts as far apart as the stitching will permit and thereby'to position them in a common plane.

The foregoing is illustrative of a preferred form of this invention, and it will be understood that this preferred form may be modified and other forms may be provided within the broad spirit of the invention and the broad scope of the claims.

I claim:

1. A machine for spreading over-locked parts of a garment or the like, comprising a head, a horizontal work-supporting plate mounted on said head, a first vertically movable support mounted on said head above said plate, a first presser foot mounted on said first support for engagement with said plate, a first opening formed in said plate below said first presser foot, a first eccentric mounted on said head below said first opening for movement in a vertical plane, a first pusher element mounted on said first eccentric and engaging in intermittent work-feeding movement through said first opening, the work-feeding path being in a horizontal plane on said work-supporting plate and along the plane of movement of thefirst eccentric, a second vertically movable support mounted on said head above said plate, a second presser foot mounted on said second support for engagement with said plate in laterally offset position relative to the first presser foot, a second opening formed in said plate below said second presser foot, a second eccentric mounted on said head below said second opening, said second eccentric operating in a vertical plane transverse of the plane of operation of the first eccentric, and a second pusher element mounted on said second eccentric and engaging in intermittent work-spreading movement through said second opening in a plane coinciding with the plane of operation of said second eccentric, the two eccentrics being synchronized so that when either rises to move its pusher element through the opening above it, the other eccentric descends to Withdraw its pusher element from the plate opening above it, said presser foot and said work-supporting plate being adapted to receive between them a garment having over-lock stitch joined parts, one such part between the first presser foot and the plate, the second such part between the second presser foot and the plate, the overlook stitch joined edges of the respective parts being disposed between the two presser feet and aligned with the plane of movement of the first eccentric, the first pusher element being adapted to engage said first part of the garment against the said presser foot to feed the garment intermittently in a path coinciding with said plane of operation of the first eccentric, the second pusher element being adapted to engage the second part of the garment against the second presser foot in the intervals between said feeding operations in order to move said second part of the garment in the direction away from the first part of the garment and in a path coinciding with the plane of movement of the second eccentric, the first presser foot being adapted to hold the first part of the garment stationary on the work-supporting plate against the pull of the second pusher element exerted upon the second part of the garment, whereby the two parts of the garment are spread substantially as far apart as the stitching will permit and thereby positioning the two parts in a substantially common plane.

2. A spreading machine in accordance with claim 1, wherein the first pusher element is adapted to engage in a generally elliptical movement through the first opening in the work-supporting plate in order to feed the garment, the path of such elliptical movement being in a plane to which the over-lock stitch joined edges of the two parts of the garment are disposed in parallel relation, said second pusher element being adapted to engage in a generally elliptical movement through the second opening in the work-supporting plate in order to spread the garment, the path of such elliptical movement of the second pusher element being in a plane disposed transversely of the plane of elliptical movement of the first pusher element.

'3. A spreading machine in accordance with claim 1,

by a second rotating eccentric which imparts to said sec- 7 ond rocker arm both pivotal and slidable movement, resulting in imparting elliptical movement to the second pusher element mounted thereon.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,312,363 Seymour Aug. 5, 1919 1,354,514 Seymour Oct. 5, 1920 1,354,783 Seymour Oct. 5, 1920 1,432,084- Nielsen Oct. 17, 1922 

